Cod Tswetka (At Cvetko's)

Cod Tswetka
The spatial designation Cod Tswetka (At Tswetko’s) relates to the neighbourhood around Tswetko’s Market. Officialy, it doesn’t exist, as the name of the market is Zwezdara green market. Tswetko’s is a damn fine example how the good deeds outlive all attempts at rewriting of history. A little less than a hundred years ago, the market grounds were home to Tswetkos Mehana (literally trannslated as Tswetko’s Inn) which was the last big Inn for those who travelled to Smederevo. The whole area belonged to a pre-war enterpreneur and benefactor Cvetko Ivanović (Tswetko Ivanowich). At the time, it was considered the far outskirt of Belgrade, and Tswetko funded the laying of tram tracks and the electrification of the whole neighbourhood, in the hope of increasing his revenues. 

However, generations of inhabitants of Belgrade have actually remembered Tswetko for his philantropics. Apart from his bountious support to Ortodox Christian temple building, Tswetko had established a foundation which provided for those in need (the poor,orphans,students and the like). Although his property was nationalised and put at disposal of communist authorities (his legal heirs had to buy off the right to live in their own house !?) his credits remained unscathed and carried on living in the collective memory of Belgarders. Thus, if you ask for Zvezdara Green market tram stop you are most likely to get  a blank stare in return. However, if you ask for Cod Tswetka (at Tsewtko’s) everyone will know what you're talking about.   

Nowadays, the area is cluttered with family sized houses and several multistorey blocks of flats. It hosts a bus hub which is a starting point for most bus routes that take passengers into Belgrade's suburbs. During the nineties it became notorious as a birthplace of many prominent members of the criminal millieu. It was also the only spot in Belgrade that had a genuine Buddhist pagoda. The temple was built by the Kalmyks who used to live in the area between the two world wars. After the liberation of Belgrade, they fled to Germany and later on to the USA, and what remained of the building was put to different use by the post war authorities.

We have no Belgrade apartments at Tswetko’s . For a reason... it’s not excatly a tourist hot spot or a business hub (in a corporate sense...the market’s fairly busy, actually). From Tswetko’s it takes no longer than twenty minutes to be in the very center of the city.